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Kayaking The Wekiva River

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Kayaking The Wekiva River
Central Florida nature exists in its purest form along four miles of the Wekiva River and Blackwater Creek.  Here 5,000 acres are protected (sort of, read below).  

For thousands of years, Native Americans valued the abundance of wildlife in this area.  This system of blackwater streams and wetlands provides habitat for black bears, river otters, alligators, wood storks, and sandhill cranes.  Today this area is known as the Lower Wekiva River Preserve.  

The Preserve is under attack by developers.  Most dramatically and destructively by the current construction of a superhighway that will bisect the Preserve and the Black Bear Wilderness Area.

If you value Florida's natural areas.  Vote for Democrats in November.  Republicans have done nothing to preserve these spectacular and irreplaceable lands.
Video:  a little snippet of my journey down the Wekiva
The Wekiva is a 16 mile-long river north of Orlando.  It originates in Apopka and joins the St. Johns River in Debary.
These images are from Katie's Landing (about a mile south of the SR 46 bridge) southeast to the confluence of the Blackwater Creek and the Wekiva near the St. Johns River.
The Wekiva River system includes the main stem joined by three main tributaries; Rock Springs Run, Blackwater Cree, and the Little Wekiva River. 
30 or more groundwater, artesian springs contribute to the river's flow.  The current is strong even after week of anomalous hot and dry weather.  I estimated the current to be 4 or 5 mph.
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The River is designated as a Florida State Canoe Trail, an Outstanding Florida Waterway, and an Aquatic Preserve.
This very hot and sunny August day the water is black, so black that I can see nothing below.  I'm not a fan of black water but I grit my teeth and move on.  Occasionally the paddle hits something in the water.  I hear a lot of grunting. . . maybe alligators. . .maybe bullfrogs. . . I push on to the southeast anyway.  
 In winter the water is much clearer and one can see the grasses and other aquatic plants that cover the river bottom.
 The Wekiva River System is one of two rivers in Florida federally designated as a National Wild and Scenic River for its scenery, recreation, geology, and diverse habitats.
 In places like this (above) fallen trees block the rivers path except for a small stream on one side or the other.  The closer one gets to Blackwater Creek the more narrow the river becomes until it is little more than a 10-foot wide, fast-moving stream.
 Located in 3 central Florida counties—Orange, Seminole and Lake—the river's total drainage basin is about 135 square miles.
Above:  On this very hot day I shed some of my protective clothing (long sleeves) but keep on my long flap hat and my life vest for fear of fast-moving boats and jet skis (the potential for swamping is great as boats race up and down the narrow river).
 After making it as far as the Blackwater Creek, after a couple of close calls with fast moving boats, I turn around and head back keeping close to the river's bank as I paddle upstream into the sun.
 It is extraordinary to have such clear, dry skies in Florida in August.  
Who stopped our rain?
 In places where the river is narrow cow lilies (aka Spatterdock; Nuphar advena) are thick.  The lilies kind of look like a lotus that never quite opens all the way.  They flowers are all yellow.
 In other places there are huge outcroppings of cypress knees and palms (above) where the river meanders and small islands are formed.
 The area approaching the Blackwater Creek has a kind of primeval feel to it, very swampy, very spooky.
 Occasionally there are signs of civilization (above).  Homes are scattered throughout the length of the river until it approaches the Blackwater.  The last 2 miles of the river are the most pristine.
Above, the end of my journey.  A wide section of the river.  On the left is Katie's Landing where I will exit the river.  The park was named for its last owner, Katie Moncrief who ran a campground and canoe livery on the property for decades.  Mrs. Moncrief and her husband Russ were prominent defenders of the Wekiva and sold their property to the Florida in 2001 for perpetual preservation.  

Make sure Florida doesn't sell off this irreplaceable land.  Vote for Democrats who believe in environmental protection.  Science-based decision making about Florida's future is the only thing that will save these lands.  There is nothing driving policy in Florida today that doesn't involve more development and destruction.
There are now signs of any kind of policing on the Lower Wekiva River, so kayaks and canoes must beware.  Keep close to the river's banks and be especially wary in its bends.

Below. . . kind of hard to see but just above and to the right of my bow come two fast-moving boats.  I barely had time to snap this photo with GoPro before they had screamed past me.  I quickly turned my kayak into the wake and took a good splashing from the wakes but remained afloat.

Tourists in Dubrovnik, Croatia, on the old town’s fortress wall, which appears in the hit show “Game of Thrones.” The coastal fort dates from the 13th century.  Photo:  Dmitry Kostyukov for The New York Times

DUBROVNIK, Croatia — Winter is coming.

But Katja Seref feels neither dread nor fear when she hears those words, uttered as a warning in “Game of Thrones.”

“I feel relief,” Ms. Seref said, still wearing her blue khaleesi dress, the costume of one of the characters vying to rule the Seven Kingdoms, after a grueling day leading yet another “Game of Thrones” tour. “It means I can get a break.”

Every summer, the hordes descend upon Dubrovnik, a gem of a Croatian city nestled on the Adriatic Sea. The crowds are drawn by the same magical beauty that has long appealed to Hollywood location scouts, like those who chose the city as the setting for the fictional King’s Landing on “Game of Thrones,” a hit show on HBO.

But the annual invading army of tourists toting selfie sticks threatens what attracted them in the first place. After all, it is hard to feel the sublime majesty of this place when crammed in an interminable line simply to gain entry into the city.
In recent years, the crowds have grown so bad that Dubrovnik in July has become synonymous with “over-tourism,” a plight shared by many of the world’s most beautiful places.

From the boulevards of Barcelona, Spain, to the canals of Venice, local officials have been struggling to deal with a similar problem: being loved too much, almost to death.

Every summer hordes of tourists descend upon Dubrovnik and its old city, a Unesco World Heritage site. Photo:  Dmitry Kostyukov for The New York Times
“Game of Thrones” fans dressed in costume during a tour on the Karaka, a painstakingly restored wooden ship used in the HBO show.  Photo:  Dmitry Kostyukov for The New York Times

In addition to the crowds, the complaints of residents in tourist hot spots include the effect on the local property market and concerns about loutish, disrespectful visitors.

Local anger is likely to grow apace with the number of travelers. The United Nations’ World Tourism Organization estimates there will be 1.8 billion international tourist-related trips by 2030, up from 1.2 billion in 2016.

Officials in Dubrovnik have started to push back against the throngs.

This summer, they have cracked down on street vendors, limited the number of outdoor restaurant tables crowding the ancient alleyways and — most important — have sought more control over the cruise ships that send thousands of passengers flooding into the old town, a Unesco World Heritage site.

This year, the city has limited the number of people who can disembark from the cruise ships at a given time. Next summer, for the first time since they started pulling into port nearly two decades ago, cruise ships will face restrictions on when they will be allowed to dock.

It is an attempt to find the right balance of welcoming tourists — and their money — without being overwhelmed.

“There is no unique solution for every destination,” said Dubrovnik’s mayor, Mato Frankovic. “But it has to start with recognizing the problem.”

Just as there is no single solution, there is no single kind of tourist in Dubrovnik. You can find day-trippers, families on holiday, people on cruise ship excursions, history buffs, party people and, in a relatively new phenomenon, “set-jetters.”

City officials have started to fight the throngs by cracking down on street vendors and limiting the number of outdoor restaurant tables.  Photo:  Dmitry Kostyukov for The New York Times
Crowds are drawn to Dubrovnik by the same magical beauty that has long appealed to Hollywood location scouts.  Photo:  Dmitry Kostyukov for The New York Times

These are people who travel the world in search of the real-life location of their favorite fictional universe. In recent years, there has been no more powerful lure than the sites used as the Seven Kingdoms on “Game of Thrones.”

In 2015 in Dubrovnik, there were some 300 show-related tours. In 2017, there were 4,500. This year, that number is already up 180 percent, according to tourism officials.

Ms. Seref, who led historical tours of the city before the “Game of Thrones” boom, is always amazed at the questions she’s asked.

For instance, she can’t count how many people have asked how long it took HBO to build the city’s walls. She politely informs the show’s fans that the defenses date from the 13th century.

She makes it a point to not just lead people to the sites of the show’s famous scenes — like the “shame” steps where Cersei Lannister, a queen portrayed by Lena Headey, was paraded naked before an angry public in Season 5 — but to offer a peek behind the curtain, a funny and observant take on what it feels like to live in a place turned into a stage set.

As passengers aboard the Karaka — a painstakingly restored wooden ship used in the show — took turns dressing up as their favorite characters as they sailed around the city, Ms. Seref relayed how one actress asked that “all the pretty Croatian girls be replaced with uglier ones,” so as not to upstage her.

She made frequent references to the astounding amounts of money spent to film what would eventually be a minute or two of footage. She diverted the discussion from the HBO show to marvel at how the crew of the latest “Star Wars” film spent a reported $10 million to shoot a scene in Dubrovnik that lasted 15 seconds onscreen.

Katja Seref, who leads “Game of Thrones” tours dressed in costume, looks forward to the winter. “It means I can get a break,” she said.  Photo:  Dmitry Kostyukov for The New York Times
Dubrovnik has sought more control over the cruise ships that send thousands of passengers flooding into the city.  Photo:  Dmitry Kostyukov for The New York Times

Later, after the day’s tour was done, she described the city’s relationship with Hollywood as complicated but good. She complimented HBO for the respect the crew showed the people and the city.

And she noted that for some six years, the show had provided a needed lift during the winter, when the crowds are long gone.

But while the winter’s empty streets present their own problems to city officials, it is the summer crush that is the immediate, pressing problem — and it is the cruise ship industry that is a focus of much of the frustration.

Soon after winning election in June 2017, Mr. Frankovic took steps to reduce the number of daily cruise passengers sent to the old city to 4,000 a day by next summer — half the 8,000 recommended by Unesco and a dramatic drop from the more than 10,000 who might show up on an average day this July.

Sitting in his office in the old city, Mr. Frankovic recalled a time when it seemed Dubrovnik might not survive, let alone become a global tourism magnet.

A “Games of Thrones” exhibition near Dubrovnik. The city draws many “set-jetters,” who seek out the locations of their favorite television shows and films.  Photo:  Dmitry Kostyukov for The New York Times
A night club in Dubrovnik. There is no single kind of tourist in the city.  Photo:  Dmitry Kostyukov for The New York Times

During the Balkan wars, Croatia was an early battleground as it sought independence from Yugoslavia, and in 1991 Dubrovnik was besieged by the Serb-dominated Yugoslav People’s Army.

For months, residents who did not flee hunkered down as the old city came under sustained artillery bombardment. More than half the buildings were damaged, and hundreds of people died.
It was not until 1997 that tourism started to pick up, the mayor said. In 2000, the cruise ships started to arrive, and their numbers have continued to grow unabated since.

“The crucial problem was that tourism was not managed,” the mayor said. “It just happened.”
After taking office, he sent a letter to the Cruise Lines International Association, which represents some 60 lines, including Carnival and Royal Caribbean, expressing the need to cut the number of ships docking at the same time. He said that the cruise industry needed time to readjust schedules, but that by next summer, the city could expect to see a dramatic difference in the number of visitors swarming its streets.

Still, for each problem officials are trying to address, a new one crops up.
For instance, just as Dubrovnik was making headway in battling overcrowding from cruises, Croatian lawmakers liberalized the country’s taxi laws, and the number of Uber drivers spiked, especially along the country’s scenic coast.

In recent years, the crowds have grown so bad that Dubrovnik in July has become synonymous with “over-tourism.”  Photo:  Dmitry Kostyukov for The New York Times
Like many other cities, Dubrovnik is trying to find the right balance of welcoming tourists without being overwhelmed.  Photo:  Dmitry Kostyukov for The New York Times

Last year, there were 250 taxi drivers in Dubrovnik. This summer, according to the mayor, there are more than 1,200. The roads simply cannot handle the traffic.
For local business owners like Gerda Metkovic, who runs the Malvasija Wine bar in the old city, in addition to limiting tourists, more could be done to promote quality local products.

While there are no chain stores like McDonald’s or Subway in the old city, the streets are still dominated by markets selling cheap trinkets and T-shirts.
The wine Ms. Metkovic serves is from the vineyard of her father, Bozo Metkovic. She also produces her own olive oil.

Among the bustle of the summer crowds, her bar feels like a refuge.
“It’s a special place,” she said of her home city, the kind of place where visitors should take away a memory that will last longer than any T-shirt.

An earlier version of this article referred to a “khaleesi” as a high-ranking warlord’s wife, which is the generic definition of the term in the Dothraki language. Viewers of the show, however, have come to identify the term with a single character in Game of Thrones, Daenerys Targaryen, whose accomplishments go far beyond being a warlord’s wife.

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